At the northern end of Piazza della Scala, Via Manzoni leads straight into the heart of Milan's most luxurious shopping district, perhaps the most luxurious shopping district in all of Italy. Right here, in a few small streets - Via Monte Napoleone, Via Sant'Andrea, Via della Spiga - are the shops of the great Italian designers, such as Armani, Versace, and Gianfranco Ferré. Don't come here looking for affordable fashion - that has been relegated to the other side of the Duomo. Shops are usually open 9-1 (except Monday morning) and 4-7:30; many are closed in August. A good locator map of the best boutiques in the area can be found mounted on a pole at the corner of Via della Spiga and Via Borgospesso.
Food and a vast array of items, new and old, are displayed in open-air stalls all over Milan. In many markets, bargaining is no longer the custom. You can try to haggle, but if you fear getting ripped off, go to the stalls where prices are clearly marked.
Milan's fortissimo occurs four times a year - in late February and October (for women) and June and January (for men) - when the world's fashion elite descend on the city for the famous ready-to-wear designer shows that invariably set next season's styles.
Department stores
La Rinascente (Piazza del Duomo, tel: 02/88521) is one of the bigger department stores in Milan.
Coin (Piazza Cinque Giornate, tel: 02/5519-2083) offers stylish shopping opportunities.
Shopping districts
Brera is a Milanese neighborhood with many unique shops. Walk along Via Brera, Via Solferino, Corso Garibaldi, and Via Paolo Sarpi.
Corso Buenos Aires is a wide avenue with a variety of shops, several offering moderately priced items.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele has clothing, leather goods, and shoe shops, some with goods at reasonable prices.
Via Monte Napoleone has 10 top-notch jewelers and a profusion of antiques stores and designer fashion boutiques.
Clothing
For the constant redefinition of cut, design, and style, Giorgio Armani (Via Sant'Andrea 9, tel: 02/7600-3234) is the fashion temple.
Check out the flashy Emporio Armani (Via Manzoni).
Cerruti 1881 (Via della Spiga 20, tel: 02/7600-9777) has elegant styles with an edge for men and women.
Head to Prada (Via della Spiga 1, tel: 02/7600-2019) for Miucca's chic, spartan design, smart leather goods, and a look at the famous series of fin-de-siècle murals with a travel theme.
Gianfranco Ferre (Via Sant'Andrea 19, tel: 02/782212) concentrates on swank, ready-to-wear apparel.
Daring design and color on the cutting edge is the fashion atGianni Versace (Via Monte Napoleone 2, tel: 02/7600-1982).
Daring design and great color are the fashion at Gianni Versace (Via Monte Napoleone 11, tel: 02/7600-8528.
Moschino (Via Sant'Andrea 7, tel: 02/7600-0832 or 02/7600-9404) counters the conventional.
Salvagente (Via F. Bronzetti 16, tel: 02/7611-0328) has brand-name clothes at a third the original sale price.
Shoes
Shoes by Beltrami (Via Monte Napoleone 16, tel: 02/7600-6660) enjoy the fashion limelight, with assurance of good quality. Other location: Piazza San Babila 4/a.
For top-quality, classic women's shoe design in the finest of hides, choose Ferragamo (Via Monte Napoleone 3, tel: 02/7600-0054). Ferragamo men's shoes can be found down the street (Via Monte Napoleone 20/5, tel: 02/7600-0054).
For a taste of style mixed with tradition, head to Fratelli Rossetti (Via Monte Napoleone 1, tel: 02/7602-1650).
Shoe addicts would be hard-pressed not to find a gorgeous pair at Lario 1898 (Via Monte Napoleone 21, tel: 02/7600-2641).
Markets
On Saturdays and Tuesday mornings, the huge Mercato Papiniano (Viale Papiniano) offers a wide selection of old and new bargains.
On Saturdays, the Fiera di Senigallia (Via Calatafimi) bulges with old and new bargains.
If you collect coins, stamps, or telephone cards (now collected in Italy like baseball cards in the United States), go on Sunday morning to the specialized market at Via Armorari (Near Piazza Cordusio).
The best antiques markets are held on the last Sunday of each month along the Navigli and the third Saturday of each month on Via Fiori Chiari (Near Via Brera).