Compared with other Italian cities, Milan is quite expensive when it comes to dining out. Don't forget that - as a general rule - the cost of the meal will be marked up with a cover charge and a service charge. Tips are appreciated, but not obligatory.
Fast food
Brek
This mini-chain of fast-food venues offers the usual Italian fares, good grilled meats and pizzas. The place in Via Lepetit, right besides the Central Station, is very agreeble: all wood-panelled, it retains its loft design and has a friendly staff.
Piazzetta Giordano Metro: San Babila (M1 red);
Piazza Cavour Metro: Turati (M3 yellow);
Via Lepetit 20 Metro: Centrale FS (M2 green and M3 yellow)
closed Sunday
Ciao
Pioneer of this "island rather than counter" style in Milan, Ciao boasts especially yummy cakes and desserts. The number of venues now near the dozen but some of them (not listed hereunder) are usually rather crowded because of their location or capacity. On the third floor of the Duomo Center, under the porticoes beside the Cathedral, look for the Sala Terrazza Duomo: its tables with a view are the best kept secret in town.
Piazza Duomo Metro: Duomo (M1 red and M3 yellow);
Corso Europa 12 Metro: San Babila (M1 red);
Via Fabio Filzi 8 Metro: Centrale FS (M2 green and M3 yellow)
closed Saturday;
Via Montebianco 54 Metro: Amendola Fiera (M1 red)
closed Sunday
McDonald's
Not surprisingly the ubiquitous hamburger-restaurant is also in Milan: in corso Buenos Aires alone there are five of them. Here are some of the most convenient ones.
Piazza Cordusio Metro: Cordusio (M1 red);
Piazza Medaglie d'Oro Metro: Porta Romana (M3 yellow);
Corso Vercelli 37;
Piazzale Lotto 5 Metro: Lotto (M1 red);
Milanese restaurants
Da Berti($$$)
Very good traditional Milanese cuisine. Al fresco dining in summer.
Via Algarotti 20, closed Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 6694627
Bistrot ($$$)
Elegant, with the best view in town and three set menus - Milanese, vegetarian and fish - to choose from.
Piazza Duomo (La Rinascente), closed Sunday and Monday lunch, tel. [+39] 02 877159 Metro: Duomo (M1 red and M3 yellow)
Casa Fontana ($$)
Milan's first course par excellence is rice, cooked here in 23 different ways. Evenings you can even choose an all-rice menu.
Piazza Carbonari 5, closed Saturday lunch and Monday, tel. [+39] 02 6704710
Metro: Sondrio (M3 yellow)
Milanese ($$$)
In a maze of old Milan streets, this one-time trattoria sticks to local gastronomic traditions.
Via Santa Marta 11, closed Tuesday, tel. [+39] 02 86451991
Metro: Cordusio (M1 red)
Risotteria ($$)
A simple place, where they make very good risottos (but not only) served by smiling folk.
Via Dandolo 2, closed Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 55181694
Meat
BBQ ($$)
Very trendy, small place for meat-eaters, where barbecued meat is the pièce de résistence.
Via Sottocorno 5, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 76003571
Meating ($$$$)
Friendly atmosphere and walls covered with original prints by contemporary cartoonists for this "meat only" restaurant: T-bone steaks, churrasco, jacket-potatoes. No pastas.
Via Cesare da Sesto 1, evenings only but open every day, tel. [+39] 02 8356799
Fish
Arrow ($$$)
Wines and oysters have a French accent, but the menu is based on Italian regional recipes. Convenient location not far from the Fiera.
Via Mantegna 17/19, closed Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 341533
Porto ($$$)
A classic place for good fish. Marine setting, almost overlooking the Darsena (basin).
Piazza Cantore, closed Sunday and Monday lunch, tel. [+39] 02 89407425
Metro: Porta Genova (M2 green)
Sambuco ($$$$)
Milan is well-known for its fish :-o and fish restaurants, but this is really special (one of the best eating-places in town). Inside the Hotel Hermitage.
Via Messina 10, closed Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 33610333
With music
Osteria Calessino ($$$)
Dining with entertainment is hardly a tradition in Milan. Here, however, in the old working-class district of Isola, the stage is taken by music and cabaret, mainly Milanese style.
Via Thaon di Revel 9, evenings only, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 6684935
Il Navigante ($$$)
A program changing almost every night, mostly live piano, accompanies the food, fish reigns supreme, prepared by 'the navigator', who boasts about a career as a chef on board the Duke of Windsor.
Via Magolfa 14, Navigli area, evenings only, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 89406320
Vegetarians
Joia ($$$)
Excellent vegetarian and vegan specialties. Smoking area.
Via Panfilo Castaldi 18, closed Saturday and Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 29522124
Metro: Porta Venezia (M1 red/Passante)
Govinda ($)
Quiet place, run by members of the Hari Krishna movement. Vegetarian food, no alcohol or smoking.
Via Valpetrosa 3, closed Sunday and Monday, tel. [+39] 02 862417
Metro: Duomo (M1 red and M3 yellow)
Ethnics
Ali Baba ($$)
A small place offering good Lebanese food: very generous hors-d'oeuvres.
Via Cadore 26, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 5450046
Balafon Cafe ($$-$)
African setting, people and food. You can have a proper meal or enjoy a drink with a background of Afro music.
Via Teodosio 6, evenings only, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 2360155
Metro: Piola (M2 green)
Cueva Maya ($$)
Very good Tex-Mex food and it shows: it's always packed. Sunday brunch.
Viale Montenero 19, evenings only, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 55185740
Metro: Porta Romana (M3 yellow)
Hana ($$)
Judging from the Korean clientele, the bulgogi here must be the real thing.
Via Lecco 5, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 29523227
Metro: Porta Venezia (M1 red /Passante)
Giardino di Giada ($$)
A good, reliable Chinese restaurant right behind the Duomo.
Via Palazzo Reale 5, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 8053891
Metro: Duomo (M1 red and M3 yellow)
Hong Kong ($$$)
Very elegant setting, exquisite Cantonese and Szechwanese cuisine. One of the best in town.
Via Schiaparelli 5, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 67071790
Metro: Centrale FS (M2 green and M3 yellow)
Moldova ($$)
Rumanian cuisine in simple unpretentious setting.
Piazzale Governo Provvisorio 6, evenings only, closed Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 2613124
Metro: Rovereto (M1 red)
Le Petit Prince ($$$)
The one and only French restaurant in town. Elegant setting.
Viale Monte Grappa 6, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 29011439
Metro: Garibaldi FS (M2 green)
Poporo ($$)
Good, reliable and price-wise Japanese restaurant.
Via Piccinni 25, closed Monday, tel. [+39] 02 29404997
Metro: Loreto (M1 red and M2 green)
Re Salomone ($$-$)
The one and only kosher restaurant in town: falafel, humus and ciolent but also lasagne, hamburgers and chips. Take way, too.
Via Washington 9, closed Friday night and Saturday, tel. [+39] 02 4694643
Metro: Wagner (M1 red)
Serendib ($$)
Welcoming ambience and food from Sri Lanka.
Via Pontida 2, evenings only but open every day, tel. [+39] 02 6592139
Metro: Moscova (M2 green)
Sukrity ($$$)
Small place with very good Indian cuisine.
Via Panfilo Castaldi 22, open every day, tel. [+39] 02 201315
Metro: Porta Venezia (M1 red/Passante)
Yar ($$$$-$$$)
Food inspired by pre-revolutionary Russia and glitzy ambience, in both restaurant proper and bistro.
Via Mercalli 22, evenings only, closed Sunday, tel. [+39] 02 58305234
Metro: Missori (M3 yellow)
